Ohio Day Trip- The Wineries of I-76

Ohio Day Trip
Enjoying the Wineries of I-76
April 21, 2012

Of the many vineyards and wineries scattered around Northeast Ohio, a few are located near the Interstate 76 corridor between Akron and Youngstown.   While working on a project in the area, I noticed signs along the highway for a few wineries that I had not yet been to.  I was eager to try new places so Meg and I spent a chilly spring afternoon visiting some of the wineries located off of I-76. 

We decided to drive to the winery that was furthest from home and work our way back.  Our first stop was Mastropietro Winery (14558 Ellsworth Road, Berlin Center, Ohio 44401).   Their property is lovely, on acres of quiet rural land with a small lake to relax beside.  The tasting room has plenty of tables, a large fireplace and a selection of wine-themed items to browse.  I was disappointed to find they were currently sold out of Riesling, my favorite variety.  Although they do serve dinner after 6:pm on Friday and Saturday nights, we were too early and decided to move on after sampling several of their wines. 

Nearby Myrddin Winery (3020 Scenic Avenue, Berlin Center, Ohio 44401) was our next stop.  Located on the shore of Lake Milton, the wooded setting is quite picturesque.  In addition to the Tasting Room, there are many outdoor seating options including a large deck off of the Tasting Room which, when completed, will offer even more seating with views of the Lake and surrounding area.  The owner seems very laidback and friendly, asking us about our afternoon, giving us recommendations and directions to the next winery on our agenda.   After sampling a few selections, we chose a table with a beautiful lake view and shared some delicious Spinach & Artichoke Dip while enjoying a glass of wine. I found Myrddin to be quite charming.

There’s always one winery that stands out because of the beautiful setting, delicious wine or quirky service.  The next winery stood out for all those reasons.  Barrel Run Crossing Winery & Vineyard (3272 Industry Road, Rootstown, Ohio 44272) is located on a family farm beside some railroad tracks hence the train-theme-named wines.  The tasting room is in the farmhouse with additional outdoor seating.  When we walked in we were greeted by a friendly young man with a fun personality.  In between making wine and music recommendations, he entertained us with sing-alongs and funny stories.  We sat beside the fireplace, enjoying  hot apple pie with ice cream while sipping glasses of All Aboard, a sweet wine, and Locomotion, a drier white.  Barrel Run offers a kind of homey atmosphere that is very comfortable and relaxing.

Our last stop was Viking Vineyard & Winery (268 Old Forge Road, Kent, Ohio 44240), also set in an attractive area with pond views.  In addition to a large tasting room, they also offer outdoor seating as well as a banquet facility.  After sampling many of their selections, we decided to share a glass of wine while snacking on a little bread with dipping oil.  As always, each of the wineries had their own unique personality and appeal.  We enjoyed each of the wineries we visited that afternoon and look forward to visiting again. 

Sister Trip- From Tulips to Trams in Amsterdam

Sister Trip- From Tulips to Trams in Amsterdam
Amsterdam- The Netherlands
April 9-13, 2012

The last leg of our trip got off to a rocky start.  Many holiday travelers were making their way back after weekend excursions and  we were fortunate to find seats on the train from Cologne to Amsterdam on Easter Monday.  It was pouring down rain when we arrived at Central Station.  We caught Tram #17 to our stop but then walked a block in the wrong direction.  When we finally found the general vicinity of our houseboat, we couldn’t see any house numbers.  After wandering around in the rain weighed down by our packs for quite a while, we finally stumbled upon the Houseboat Osiris (HomeAway Listing # 233441- $620/4 nights).

Furnished with basic pieces and simply decorated, it was the roomiest of all of our accommodations and had a very comfortable, homey feeling.   Moored at the intersection of Jacob van Lennepkade and Singelgracht canals, the houseboat is in a great location.  Two outdoor spaces, one open-air patio and one covered porch, made for delightful people watching.   

Just a short walk away is Leidseplein, an area full of restaurants, nightlife and big crowds.  Even though it was raining heavily and the wind was blowing hard enough to turn my umbrella inside out, the streets were full of revelers enjoying their night out in Amsterdam.  After checking a few restaurant menus we chose an obvious tourist trap conspicuously located facing a square in the heart the area.  Pub food and good prices drew us in to the Pancake Corner and we were not disappointed- we devoured our meals.  We walked around and window-shopped, stopping in a little café’ called Dolphins for the best refreshing juice drinks, browsing a gallery of glass piece and  picking up an assortment of treats to stock the kitchen. 

I’d always pictured Amsterdam as laid-back and easy-going but it is actually fast paced and reserved.  Let me just take a moment to warn you of the many perils of momentarily distraction while in Amsterdam.  I’m sure being hit by a tram would cause a fair amount of suffering.  And the cyclists-they come out of nowhere, attempting to weave around tourists trying to cross the designated bike lane.  Between dodging the trams and avoiding cyclist while being sure not to step off into a canal, Amsterdam could be a hazardous place for those that don’t have their wits about them. 

While the girls went grocery shopping, I took the #12 Tram to the Van Gogh Museum (€14/pp) on Tuesday afternoon.  Although I’d been warned of long lines, the queue moved quickly and I was at the ticket counter within five minutes.  The Van Gogh Museum displays not only the works of Vincent Van Gogh, but also the paintings of artists that inspired him as well as other artists of his time.  Not a museum with multiple wings and vast galleries, it was easy to see the collection in an afternoon. 

We specifically planned our trip around when the tulips would be blooming.  Although the forecast had predicted gloomy weather for most of our visit, we were very excited to have a gorgeous Wednesday to visit Keukenhof, the world’s largest flower garden.  We took the tram to Central Station, a train to the airport and caught a bus to Lisse from there.  Fields of spring flowers planted in rows of vibrant colors- all shades of pink, purple, red and yellow- were the first thing I saw from the bus window when we exited the highway.  When we walked into Keukenhof, I was awed by the brilliant scene.  We made our way haphazardly through the park, following meandering paths through the landscaped gardens of tulips, hyacinth and daffodils.   Visiting Keukenhof and seeing the tulip fields was one of the highlights of our trip.

I woke up early on Thursday morning and rode two trams, then walked along the Herensgracht to the Museum of Bags & Purses (€8.50/pp) Although it is a small museum, the collection is immense.  From some of the earliest means of carrying items to the latest designer bags, there was a chronological exhibit of intricately made items- beaded, lace, leather and many other materials.   In addition to the exquisitely made bags and purses, other accessories like jewelry, shoes and hats were also on display.  As an accessory-maniac, I was in heaven!   After viewing the collection I browsed the gift shop, full of beautifully made bags along with other purse-related items like wallets and mirrors .  I decided to splurge a little and bought a bold black satchel , a few postcards and small gifts for Jo & Meg to remember the trip by.

 

We opted against the Hop-on/Hop-off canal boat ride and instead created our own Tram Tour.  At €7.50/day, a tram ticket is much less expensive!  We rode Tram #17 to Dam Square, which was full of performers in costume- I turned to see Jo completely transfixed by the whole scene.  One stop away is the Begijnhof Court- although the exterior courtyard is bustling with visitors, just through the door and inside the walls all is peaceful.  We walked around the gardens, appreciating the serenity in the middle of the bustling city.  Then on to Westermarkt to explore that area a little, visiting a little cheese shop with delicious samples, a juice bar that looked like CBGBs and a neat little place called Electric Ladyland, a museum dedicated to fluorescent rocks, minerals and crystals.  We spent a little time walking around the cute Jordaan district, then rode the tram to Vondel Park and strolled around there a bit.  

We wanted to spend our last night in Amsterdam the way we spent our first- eating at the Pancake Corner!  We each ordered a pancake (more a crepe than what Americans consider a pancake) - Meg’s with chocolate, pears and whipped cream, Jo’s with chocolate and bananas, mine with bacon, mushrooms and cheese- all delicious!  The next morning we packed up our stuff, took a tram to the train station, took a train to the airport and flew home.

Amsterdam didn’t possess the magical quality some destinations seemed to have.   Instead, Amsterdam was full of subtle elements that made it memorable- the arch of the bridges, the canals glowing gold in the streetlamp light, peach juice drinks, Choco Swing candy bars.  The experiences I shared with my sisters made it unforgettable- eating homemade dinners together, taking funny pictures of ourselves in giant wooden clogs, spending five last minutes sitting on the covered deck watching cyclists pedal over the bridge.  I cannot imagine taking two-week, four-country whirlwind tour of Europe with anyone but my sisters!

Sister Trip- Easter in Germany

Sister Trip- Easter in Germany

Mannheim, Bacharach & Cologne, Germany
April 6-9, 2012

Although we are a mix of German, French and Irish descent, it is our German heritage that we most identify with. My grandmother was very proud of her lineage and often reminisced about German culture and traditions. After paying tribute to our Grampy by visiting the D-Day Beaches, we wanted to honor our Momo by visiting her ancestral home of Mannheim, Germany. Mannheim is known for its pretzel stands and that is the first thing we saw when we exited the train platform. We stashed our luggage in a locker and I put my Lonely Planet German phrasebook to good use by asking the Information Desk attendant for a street map and directions, then headed off to explore the city on foot.

From there we walked to Luisenpark. Named one of Europe’s most beautiful parks, Luisenpark (€6/pp) is a small amusement park with gondola rides (€2/pp), flower gardens and lots of activities for children. The gondola ride was quite exciting- huge koi surround the boat hoping to catch morsels of food in their giant mouths. It looks like a feeding frenzy and is actually a little freaky. We strolled around the tranquil Chinese Garden and played on various amusing features designed for children but also quite fun for young-at-heart adults like hanging bridges and stepping stones through babbling little streams.

Later that afternoon we caught a regional train from Mannheim to Bacharach, changing trains in Bingen. While most of the train riders in Belgium and France were subdued and kept to themselves, the train in Germany was lively and loud with people laughing over card games, children playing with each other in the aisles and older women trading sections of the newspaper. I’ll just admit that we’re a loud and lively family- now I know that is a part of our proud German heritage.

We arrived in Bacharach in the early evening. Loaded down with our packs we walked into town searching for a path to our next accommodations- the Burg Stahleck, a 12th century castle turned hostel (€20/pp/night), which sits perched high above the Rhine River. We found our way up the hill, climbing more than 300 stone steps in agony under the weight of our belongings. When we finally made it to the top, many of the people relaxing in the castle’s courtyard turned to give us knowing smiles, completely understanding what an undertaking the climb really is.

We checked in and were shown to our room, a tiny dorm with four bunk beds, a few cabinets, a small table and a shared bathroom down the hall. Although our room was sparsely furnished, we had an incredible view of the Rhine River Valley from our window. We spent the rest of our evening exploring the castle, climbing the winding stairway in the tower and enjoying some wine at a picnic table overlooking the town and river. The hostel offers a variety of amenities for the traveling family. There is a children’s game room, an arcade and a Ping-Pong table located in one of the towers. Wi-Fi and computer access are both offered. There are shelves of games and books and many ways of entertaining a group of all ages. I’ll admit, as three child-free women in our late-20s to mid-30s, the packs of screaming kids did sometimes wear on our nerves but for the most part the experience of sleeping in a castle more than made up for the inconvenience of wailing children. Except in the morning- man, are kids loud!

Almost everyone ventures out to enjoy their day by mid-morning so we savored getting ready alone in the empty shared bathroom. We headed down the hill and strolled all around Bacharach, walking up and down the city streets, out of city gates, along the vineyards, everywhere we could explore. I completely understand why Germany is the setting of fairytales. Castles are perched above quaint little villages of half-timbered buildings and homes set on cobblestone streets. The air seemed fresher and easier to breathe. It is like wine grows on trees here. It is a fantasyland. We all loved it!

After shopping for handmade lace scarves (€3 each) and browsing some other shops, we stopped for lunch at Rusticana, a cozy little restaurant that serves traditional German food. We ordered schnitzel, bratwurst, homemade soup and a small jug of wine. Everything was delicious. As we left, we passed St. Jozefskapelle, a small chapel built into a row of houses. At one time Catholic churches did not want to stand out in this region, but we were immediately drawn to this sanctuary. There was something very peaceful and comforting about this place.

After lunch we made our way back up the hill and curled up in our bunk beds to relax a little- I read a book, Meg played on her iPad. Four hours later, we all woke up. Our bunk beds were so comfy and cozy and we slept so soundly that we’d napped the afternoon and much of the evening away. We got up, got ready and walked toward town to find some dinner. On our way we stopped to view Wernerkapelle, a Gothic church built in 1287 and destroyed in the 17th century when debris from the castle above fell on the church while under siege. From the ruins, we could hear organ music coming from St. Peters Church nearby and sat on the steps outside listening. We found a little pizzeria right across the street from our lunch spot and enjoyed choices like the ‘Dracula’ pizza, a pie with two kinds of spicy peppers, mushrooms and other toppings which was scrumptious!

Although it was supposed to be very cold and possibly snowing on Easter Sunday morning, the sun was shining and it was relatively warm. We set out to explore a little more, following a designated hiking trail past pastures of goats, through the vineyards and by several watchtowers situated around the village. We had a blast on our hike, stopping for several photo opportunities along the way and making the most of the surprisingly beautiful day.

After hiking around the German countryside, we walked into town. We were surprised to find many of the town’s restaurants open, their patios full of people also enjoying the weather. Megan and I were thrilled when we found a sign indicating that the restaurant before us, Friedrich Bastian's Weingut zum Grüner Baum, boasted the extraordinary experience of a 15-glass wine tasting carousel and bore Rick Steve’s stamp of approval. After spending the morning exploring the vineyards the grapes used to make these wines were grown in, we were ready to sample the end product. Diners at other tables smiled and nodded when the large carousel of wine was delivered to our table. We enjoyed a lunch of frankfurters and potato salad while tasting each of the wines. We used a rating system to keep track of our favorites and purchased a well-priced bottle from the wine shop to enjoy later.

That evening we stayed in and enjoyed an Easter Feast buffet at the hostel- they had everything from ham and kraut to beef and potatoes, a huge selection of sides, desserts and candy. I filled three plates with bite size portions of just about every option. We spent the rest of our evening drinking wine, constructing a fortress made of Legos and playing cards in the children’s game room. The next morning we woke up early, had breakfast, packed our bags and walked down the hill to the train station. It was a dreary morning as we prepared to leave Germany and head to our final destination of Amsterdam. The train ride up the Rhine was pleasant, often displaying views of castles on either side of the river. We all fell asleep on the train and missed our stop at the Cologne Central Station but we just hopped off and caught the next train back.

We stashed our bags in the most deluxe of airport lockers- put all your stuff into a metal box, close the door and the contents are whisked away into the depths of the station storage system to be retrieved later with a magnetic swipe card. I had heard that the Cologne Cathedral was very near the Central Station and since we had an hour before our train to Amsterdam we decided to take a look. The church is literally across the courtyard, just steps from the station. We walked around the gigantic Gothic church constructed during medieval times and then back to browse some of the stores in the station before leaving for the last leg of our trip- Amsterdam.
We agree that out of all the places we visited, Germany was our favorite. We were able to relax, go at a slower pace, take in our surroundings and enjoy a little of what the area has to offer. We were in the land of our ancestors doing the things we love to do- hiking, enjoying local foods and drinking wine. I can’t help but think that we felt so at ease in Germany because the culture is in our blood. Visiting Germany with my sisters is bound to be one of my all-time best memories!

Day Trip- Tour of the D-Day Beaches

Day Trip- Tour of the D-Day Beaches
Normandy Region, France
April 5, 2012

We wanted to honor the memory of our grandfather and pay our respects to all that bravely faced battle on D-Day.  Our Grampy was one of the many heroic troops that stormed the beaches of Normandy on June 6, 1944.  Part of the Army Infantry, he waded out of the English Channel and advanced onto the shore of Omaha Beach.   German troops stationed on the cliffs above the beach showered them with heavy gunfire.  My grandfather was told ‘You will see people fall on the left and right of you- just keep running forward.’   And that is what my Grampy did until he was hit in the head and leg.  He spent months in a hospital rehabilitating from his wounds. 

After researching the benefits of a tour guide vs. a self-guided tour of the area, we decided that €60/pp for a knowledgeable guide and driver was a pretty good deal.  We booked online with Normandy Sightseeing Tours and purchased train tickets from Paris to Bayeux and back for a day in the Normandy Region of France.  The views of the French countryside were idyllic.  Sheep dotted rolling hills, huge old cathedrals stood in the middle of tiny walled villages.  It was all as quaint as it could possibly be. Our destination of Bayeux was equally picturesque and I wish we’d had more time to explore the town and surrounding area.  After getting off the train, we set off walking in the general direction of the town square, seeking out Place du Quebec, a small square behind the Churchill Hotel, our rendezvous spot.  We picnicked beside a stream while waiting for our guide. 

 

When Sylvain "Sly" pulled up, I turned to Jo and said ‘I hope he’s our guide!’  I’ll just go ahead and say it- he’s fairly dreamy.  I mean, he’s got this French accent and a dry sense of humor and he looks nice.  But on top of that he’s very knowledgeable about the history of the region and has the ability to explain military strategy and situations in a way that was insightful and thought-provoking.  He added so many details to the story that the history books don’t include and gave us a new perspective on what went down. 

Sylvain said that we could take the highway directly to our first official tour destination but he preferred to take back roads so that his guests could see Normandy.  I am thrilled that he did- the area is just breathtaking!  We passed a thousand-year-old church, a farm that produces award-winning apple brandy, a monument to a battle between the French and English hundreds of years ago.  I decided that I want to return and tour the area by bicycle- there are just so many magnificent views to take in. 

We arrived at our first stop- Pointe du Hoc, 100-foot cliffs where the Germans had stationed 6 heavy guns capable of shooting targets miles away.  Army Rangers succeeded in disabling the guns but misinformation and lack of communication made the mission a very difficult one with very heavy losses.  As Sylvain told us, the small craters that pocked the area were made by the Air Force attacking from the sky and the big pits were the result of the Navy bombarding from sea.  Looking down on the beach from the top of the cliffs, it was easy to recognize how difficult it would have been to scale those walls and accomplish the objective. 

Our next stop was Omaha Beach, the beach my grandfather stormed almost 70 years before.  We walked toward the shore and stood facing inland, looking at the hills and cliffs above.  We were all overcome with emotion over the sacrifice our grandfather made on that beach.  The weather was bleak that day, much as it was on D-Day.  There were high winds and sporadic rain and it was really cold but it added to our understanding of what the troops went through.  We collected vials of sand and sea shells, paid remembrance to our grandfather, grouped hugged and walked to the van. 
As we walked into the American Cemetery, we encountered a group of boisterous teens on a school trip.  As they were laughing and hamming it up for pictures, Sylvain approached them, explained that this cemetery deserved respect and reverence and asked them to behave more appropriately.  He then continued with his tour.  Sly said that we could take some time to walk around the cemetery, go to the Visitor’s Center or observe the flag ceremony. They asked for Americans to participate in taking down and folding the flag and Joanna volunteered.  As she helped lower the flag, a bugler sounded ‘Taps’.  We were all moved to tears. 

The last destination on our tour was Longues-sur-Mer, another German battery.  Still displayed in the bunkers are the actual four guns with a range of 15 miles, enough to defend Omaha and Gold Beaches.  But the Allied Forces were able to destroy them and the evidence of the damage inflicted can be observed in those bunkers.    

By the end of the tour, we were cold, hungry and tired.  But the daytrip to the Normandy Region and our tour of the D-Day Beaches were outstanding and sharing the experience with my sisters made it even more special.  We were able to pay homage to a man that was very special to us and gain some understanding of the life experiences that shaped him.  Touring the D-Day Beaches was the most moving experience of our entire trip. 

D-Day Photograph- "Taxis to Hell – and Back – Into the Jaws of Death" is a historic photograph taken on June 6, 1944, by Robert F. Sargent, a Chief Photographer's Mate in the United States Coast Guard.  Public domain; official U.S. Coast Guard photograph.

Sister Trip- An American Girl in Paris

An American Girl in Paris
Paris, France
April 3-6, 2012

“Ah, Paris in the spring- what could be more delightful?” Lut mused as she walked us out of the B&B and helped us into the cab. 

But my first experience in Paris was overwhelming.  We’d made our way from Bruges to Paris by high-speed train and waited outside the station in a long queue for a taxi. Finally we climbed into the back of a car and were quickly weaving in and out of bumper-to-bumper traffic, guys on motorcycles speeding past us on both sides, our taxi driver occasionally rolling down his window to yell out to a fellow driver, pedestrian or even police officer.  He also pointed out various landmarks- the city’s first hospital, the flower market, many different churches-but  they all went by in a blur.  My first few moments in Paris were jarring and I was intimidated.

Our taxi driver called out that we were now on Rue de La Montagne Sainte Genevieve in the Latin Quarter (5th arrondssement).The street had recently been featured in Woody Allen’s movie ‘Midnight in Paris’.  I took in the neighborhood as we climbed up the narrow sloping street- there was a group of food shops at a main intersection, a small market on the same street, a laundromat at the bottom of the hill- everything we needed to survive.  Our taxi driver pulled over, declared ‘This is it… somewhere around here’ and started unloading our bags. 

We found our apartment building, entered an ancient looking stone walled hallway and made our way up four flights of uneven stairs.   We were pleased when we entered the well-decorated apartment (VRBO Listing #336072- $540/3 days).  Although small, it was all that we needed to live for a few days-  a kitchen with high-tech appliances, a dining area, a sleeper futon and a queen size bed in the studio apartment.  Best of all- we had big windows and a view of the towers of Notre Dame. 

We decided to stock the kitchen and walked down to the collection of food shops.  They had a produce stand, bakery, meat market, fishmonger, cheese shop and wine store.  We now faced our first real language challenge- buying food.  I walked into the bakery, said ‘Bonjour!’ and was greeted with a smile.  I pointed to items in the case, said ‘Un quiche Lorraine, et un baguette, et trios croissants s'il vous plait.”  When the clerk asked me something I did not understand I said ‘Parlez-vous anglais?’ to which she responded ‘Of course!’  As she wrapped up our purchases she asked us if were sisters and chatted with us about where we were from.  The next time we saw her to purchase breakfast items and macarons she greeted us warmly and gave us a bag full of tiny little pastries- something like light little croissants with sugar sprinkled on top- it was such a kind gesture. The woman working in the Paris bakery made us feel welcome. 

We moved on to the meat market where I attempted to purchase a rotisserie chicken.  I think I said something like ‘I’d like a chicken of the rotisserie, please.’  The man laughed but said ‘Oh, you try!’ and motioned for me to pick one.  We found a nice bottle of French wine for €6, I chose a reasonably priced wedge of brie from a fine selection in the cheese shop.  We all took turns asking and paying for items to get acquainted with the language. We were met with kindness and appreciation for our attempt at using French, if not with a little amusement at what I’m sure was a choppy stab at their language.  But for all we’d heard about how the French are rude and hate Americans, we were met with smiles, helpful service and friendly conversation. 

It was a beautifully sunny afternoon and we were ready to head out and explore.  We walked down the hill, past art displays and trinket vendors, crossed the River Seine and came upon the Notre Dame Cathedral.  We strolled around a bit, then continued on to the Conciergierie complex which houses La Sainte Chapelle (€8/pp), a chapel with unbelievably dazzling stained glass windows.  Even undergoing restoration with scaffolding erected, the view of the gleaming windows was just gorgeous. 

As we walked around the area we encountered something we anxiously awaited on our Parisian adventure, something we were all too eager to partake in- we found a crepes stand!   We love crepes!  We L-O-V-E crepes.  And now we were going to have them.  In Paris.  Really.  We ordered a plain sugar crepe and one with chocolate and banana.  They were delectable. 

We made our way up the Left Bank of the River Seine, walking from the Pont Neuf to the Pont des Arts, a bridge covered with padlocks of every size and shape, many displaying the names of a couple, often with a date included.   Jo asked someone if they could explain the meaning and they responded that this was a love bridge and the padlocks were locks of love.  Couples seal their love on the bridge, tighten a lock around the chain-link and throw the key into the river, a resounding symbol of never ending devotion to one another.  

We wandered around the Saint Germain neighborhood, weaving in and out of narrow streets full of restaurants and shops as we made our way back toward the Latin Quarter that evening.  Roaming about, relaxing in the squares and sitting in courtyards, we got a little taste of the surrounding neighborhoods.  On foot the city was so much less daunting.  It was charming and warm.  The little details were more noticeable- the landmarks weren’t just zooming by.  I realized that while it crept up slowly, I was becoming enchanted with Paris.

We were waiting in line the next morning to climb 387 steps up the Towers of Notre Dame (€8.50/pp).  When we were let in, we made our way up a winding spiral staircase, the treads of the steps rubbed away by centuries of foot traffic.  When we finally emerged at the top, the dramatic sight of all of Paris, including our first view of the Eiffel Tower, with the gargoyles of Norte Dame in the foreground dominating the scene was a cathartic experience.  Like many teenage girls I was enamored with Paris.  Two decades later, I was fulfilling a dream.

From Notre Dame we walked down steps along the Seine to the Batobus stop.  The Batobus (€15/pp) is a hop-on, hop-off boat that transports tourists to eight different stops around Paris via the Seine.  There is usually about 10-15 minutes between stops, a great way to get off your feet, organize your thoughts and relax just a little before exploring a new area.  We rode the Batobus to the Louvre stop.  Fortress turned palace turned museum, the Louvre was grandiose, opulent, and excessive.  The walls stretched around a vast expanse with a huge courtyard displaying the glass pyramids that house the entrance to the museum.  Because of our limited time we did not enter but instead walked around the courtyard and grounds viewing the sculptures and monuments displayed within the complex. 

We hopped back on the Batobus and hopped off at the Champs Elysées stop.  We walked past the Grand Palais to the Place de la Concorde, a vast city square with spectacular fountains and a large Egyptian obelisk that was given as a gift to France around 1830.  The obelisk stands on the place where a guillotine was once used during the French Revolution to execute thousands of French nobles, including King Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette.  Nearby we saw a movie being filmed along the banks of the Seine- they had a director, actors, a crew, everything.  It was pretty exciting- I plan to watch for myself in every independent French movie I come across. 

Our next stop was the Eiffel Tower.  When we arrived under the massive supports of the tower it was striking just how colossal the tower really is.  We purchased tickets to climb the steps (€5/pp) and started the ascent.  There are approximately 670 steps to the 2nd level- we climbed to the first level, walked around a bit, then continued on to the 2nd level. The views were breathtaking. We purchased postcards from the gift shop, stamps from an automated machine and mailed them out from the on-site mailbox which marks each letter with a special Eiffel Tower postmark. 

The next morning we decided to brave the Paris Metro System.  Using my handy Streetwise Paris Map, I plotted our course to Gare St. Lazare to catch the train for our trip to Bayeux and the tour of the Normandy D-Day Beaches.  As it turns out, it really was not that hard- everything is well marked, there are signs posted, etc.  We just walked down to our nearest Metro station, purchased a carnet of 10 tickets from an automated machine, passed through the turnstile and entered the network of hallways leading to the platforms.  We just had to be sure to follow the signs displaying the name of the last stop in the direction we were going and we easily found the correct place. Really, it was simple, but we were still pretty proud of ourselves for figuring it out and making it to the train station that morning.  We rode the same route in reverse on our way back that evening.

Happily, there was a crepe stand near the exit of the Metro on our walk up the hill to our apartment.  We ordered a Nutella and banana crepe- scrumptious!  It was the last crepe we had in Paris.  We stuffed our packs, cleaned the apartment and moved out the next morning.  We rode the Metro to Gare de L’Est and boarded the train to Mannheim, Germany. 

Paris is a city with a million views- everywhere you turn there is some fascinating sight, whether it is a fountain, or building, or bridge.  It is a captivating city with an atmosphere that is romantic and enticing.  Everyone we encountered was warm and hospitable .  In the short time we were there, Paris had gone from being intimidating to inviting.