Day Trip- Tour of the D-Day Beaches

Day Trip- Tour of the D-Day Beaches
Normandy Region, France
April 5, 2012

We wanted to honor the memory of our grandfather and pay our respects to all that bravely faced battle on D-Day.  Our Grampy was one of the many heroic troops that stormed the beaches of Normandy on June 6, 1944.  Part of the Army Infantry, he waded out of the English Channel and advanced onto the shore of Omaha Beach.   German troops stationed on the cliffs above the beach showered them with heavy gunfire.  My grandfather was told ‘You will see people fall on the left and right of you- just keep running forward.’   And that is what my Grampy did until he was hit in the head and leg.  He spent months in a hospital rehabilitating from his wounds. 

After researching the benefits of a tour guide vs. a self-guided tour of the area, we decided that €60/pp for a knowledgeable guide and driver was a pretty good deal.  We booked online with Normandy Sightseeing Tours and purchased train tickets from Paris to Bayeux and back for a day in the Normandy Region of France.  The views of the French countryside were idyllic.  Sheep dotted rolling hills, huge old cathedrals stood in the middle of tiny walled villages.  It was all as quaint as it could possibly be. Our destination of Bayeux was equally picturesque and I wish we’d had more time to explore the town and surrounding area.  After getting off the train, we set off walking in the general direction of the town square, seeking out Place du Quebec, a small square behind the Churchill Hotel, our rendezvous spot.  We picnicked beside a stream while waiting for our guide. 

 

When Sylvain "Sly" pulled up, I turned to Jo and said ‘I hope he’s our guide!’  I’ll just go ahead and say it- he’s fairly dreamy.  I mean, he’s got this French accent and a dry sense of humor and he looks nice.  But on top of that he’s very knowledgeable about the history of the region and has the ability to explain military strategy and situations in a way that was insightful and thought-provoking.  He added so many details to the story that the history books don’t include and gave us a new perspective on what went down. 

Sylvain said that we could take the highway directly to our first official tour destination but he preferred to take back roads so that his guests could see Normandy.  I am thrilled that he did- the area is just breathtaking!  We passed a thousand-year-old church, a farm that produces award-winning apple brandy, a monument to a battle between the French and English hundreds of years ago.  I decided that I want to return and tour the area by bicycle- there are just so many magnificent views to take in. 

We arrived at our first stop- Pointe du Hoc, 100-foot cliffs where the Germans had stationed 6 heavy guns capable of shooting targets miles away.  Army Rangers succeeded in disabling the guns but misinformation and lack of communication made the mission a very difficult one with very heavy losses.  As Sylvain told us, the small craters that pocked the area were made by the Air Force attacking from the sky and the big pits were the result of the Navy bombarding from sea.  Looking down on the beach from the top of the cliffs, it was easy to recognize how difficult it would have been to scale those walls and accomplish the objective. 

Our next stop was Omaha Beach, the beach my grandfather stormed almost 70 years before.  We walked toward the shore and stood facing inland, looking at the hills and cliffs above.  We were all overcome with emotion over the sacrifice our grandfather made on that beach.  The weather was bleak that day, much as it was on D-Day.  There were high winds and sporadic rain and it was really cold but it added to our understanding of what the troops went through.  We collected vials of sand and sea shells, paid remembrance to our grandfather, grouped hugged and walked to the van. 
As we walked into the American Cemetery, we encountered a group of boisterous teens on a school trip.  As they were laughing and hamming it up for pictures, Sylvain approached them, explained that this cemetery deserved respect and reverence and asked them to behave more appropriately.  He then continued with his tour.  Sly said that we could take some time to walk around the cemetery, go to the Visitor’s Center or observe the flag ceremony. They asked for Americans to participate in taking down and folding the flag and Joanna volunteered.  As she helped lower the flag, a bugler sounded ‘Taps’.  We were all moved to tears. 

The last destination on our tour was Longues-sur-Mer, another German battery.  Still displayed in the bunkers are the actual four guns with a range of 15 miles, enough to defend Omaha and Gold Beaches.  But the Allied Forces were able to destroy them and the evidence of the damage inflicted can be observed in those bunkers.    

By the end of the tour, we were cold, hungry and tired.  But the daytrip to the Normandy Region and our tour of the D-Day Beaches were outstanding and sharing the experience with my sisters made it even more special.  We were able to pay homage to a man that was very special to us and gain some understanding of the life experiences that shaped him.  Touring the D-Day Beaches was the most moving experience of our entire trip. 

D-Day Photograph- "Taxis to Hell – and Back – Into the Jaws of Death" is a historic photograph taken on June 6, 1944, by Robert F. Sargent, a Chief Photographer's Mate in the United States Coast Guard.  Public domain; official U.S. Coast Guard photograph.

Sister Trip- An American Girl in Paris

An American Girl in Paris
Paris, France
April 3-6, 2012

“Ah, Paris in the spring- what could be more delightful?” Lut mused as she walked us out of the B&B and helped us into the cab. 

But my first experience in Paris was overwhelming.  We’d made our way from Bruges to Paris by high-speed train and waited outside the station in a long queue for a taxi. Finally we climbed into the back of a car and were quickly weaving in and out of bumper-to-bumper traffic, guys on motorcycles speeding past us on both sides, our taxi driver occasionally rolling down his window to yell out to a fellow driver, pedestrian or even police officer.  He also pointed out various landmarks- the city’s first hospital, the flower market, many different churches-but  they all went by in a blur.  My first few moments in Paris were jarring and I was intimidated.

Our taxi driver called out that we were now on Rue de La Montagne Sainte Genevieve in the Latin Quarter (5th arrondssement).The street had recently been featured in Woody Allen’s movie ‘Midnight in Paris’.  I took in the neighborhood as we climbed up the narrow sloping street- there was a group of food shops at a main intersection, a small market on the same street, a laundromat at the bottom of the hill- everything we needed to survive.  Our taxi driver pulled over, declared ‘This is it… somewhere around here’ and started unloading our bags. 

We found our apartment building, entered an ancient looking stone walled hallway and made our way up four flights of uneven stairs.   We were pleased when we entered the well-decorated apartment (VRBO Listing #336072- $540/3 days).  Although small, it was all that we needed to live for a few days-  a kitchen with high-tech appliances, a dining area, a sleeper futon and a queen size bed in the studio apartment.  Best of all- we had big windows and a view of the towers of Notre Dame. 

We decided to stock the kitchen and walked down to the collection of food shops.  They had a produce stand, bakery, meat market, fishmonger, cheese shop and wine store.  We now faced our first real language challenge- buying food.  I walked into the bakery, said ‘Bonjour!’ and was greeted with a smile.  I pointed to items in the case, said ‘Un quiche Lorraine, et un baguette, et trios croissants s'il vous plait.”  When the clerk asked me something I did not understand I said ‘Parlez-vous anglais?’ to which she responded ‘Of course!’  As she wrapped up our purchases she asked us if were sisters and chatted with us about where we were from.  The next time we saw her to purchase breakfast items and macarons she greeted us warmly and gave us a bag full of tiny little pastries- something like light little croissants with sugar sprinkled on top- it was such a kind gesture. The woman working in the Paris bakery made us feel welcome. 

We moved on to the meat market where I attempted to purchase a rotisserie chicken.  I think I said something like ‘I’d like a chicken of the rotisserie, please.’  The man laughed but said ‘Oh, you try!’ and motioned for me to pick one.  We found a nice bottle of French wine for €6, I chose a reasonably priced wedge of brie from a fine selection in the cheese shop.  We all took turns asking and paying for items to get acquainted with the language. We were met with kindness and appreciation for our attempt at using French, if not with a little amusement at what I’m sure was a choppy stab at their language.  But for all we’d heard about how the French are rude and hate Americans, we were met with smiles, helpful service and friendly conversation. 

It was a beautifully sunny afternoon and we were ready to head out and explore.  We walked down the hill, past art displays and trinket vendors, crossed the River Seine and came upon the Notre Dame Cathedral.  We strolled around a bit, then continued on to the Conciergierie complex which houses La Sainte Chapelle (€8/pp), a chapel with unbelievably dazzling stained glass windows.  Even undergoing restoration with scaffolding erected, the view of the gleaming windows was just gorgeous. 

As we walked around the area we encountered something we anxiously awaited on our Parisian adventure, something we were all too eager to partake in- we found a crepes stand!   We love crepes!  We L-O-V-E crepes.  And now we were going to have them.  In Paris.  Really.  We ordered a plain sugar crepe and one with chocolate and banana.  They were delectable. 

We made our way up the Left Bank of the River Seine, walking from the Pont Neuf to the Pont des Arts, a bridge covered with padlocks of every size and shape, many displaying the names of a couple, often with a date included.   Jo asked someone if they could explain the meaning and they responded that this was a love bridge and the padlocks were locks of love.  Couples seal their love on the bridge, tighten a lock around the chain-link and throw the key into the river, a resounding symbol of never ending devotion to one another.  

We wandered around the Saint Germain neighborhood, weaving in and out of narrow streets full of restaurants and shops as we made our way back toward the Latin Quarter that evening.  Roaming about, relaxing in the squares and sitting in courtyards, we got a little taste of the surrounding neighborhoods.  On foot the city was so much less daunting.  It was charming and warm.  The little details were more noticeable- the landmarks weren’t just zooming by.  I realized that while it crept up slowly, I was becoming enchanted with Paris.

We were waiting in line the next morning to climb 387 steps up the Towers of Notre Dame (€8.50/pp).  When we were let in, we made our way up a winding spiral staircase, the treads of the steps rubbed away by centuries of foot traffic.  When we finally emerged at the top, the dramatic sight of all of Paris, including our first view of the Eiffel Tower, with the gargoyles of Norte Dame in the foreground dominating the scene was a cathartic experience.  Like many teenage girls I was enamored with Paris.  Two decades later, I was fulfilling a dream.

From Notre Dame we walked down steps along the Seine to the Batobus stop.  The Batobus (€15/pp) is a hop-on, hop-off boat that transports tourists to eight different stops around Paris via the Seine.  There is usually about 10-15 minutes between stops, a great way to get off your feet, organize your thoughts and relax just a little before exploring a new area.  We rode the Batobus to the Louvre stop.  Fortress turned palace turned museum, the Louvre was grandiose, opulent, and excessive.  The walls stretched around a vast expanse with a huge courtyard displaying the glass pyramids that house the entrance to the museum.  Because of our limited time we did not enter but instead walked around the courtyard and grounds viewing the sculptures and monuments displayed within the complex. 

We hopped back on the Batobus and hopped off at the Champs Elysées stop.  We walked past the Grand Palais to the Place de la Concorde, a vast city square with spectacular fountains and a large Egyptian obelisk that was given as a gift to France around 1830.  The obelisk stands on the place where a guillotine was once used during the French Revolution to execute thousands of French nobles, including King Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette.  Nearby we saw a movie being filmed along the banks of the Seine- they had a director, actors, a crew, everything.  It was pretty exciting- I plan to watch for myself in every independent French movie I come across. 

Our next stop was the Eiffel Tower.  When we arrived under the massive supports of the tower it was striking just how colossal the tower really is.  We purchased tickets to climb the steps (€5/pp) and started the ascent.  There are approximately 670 steps to the 2nd level- we climbed to the first level, walked around a bit, then continued on to the 2nd level. The views were breathtaking. We purchased postcards from the gift shop, stamps from an automated machine and mailed them out from the on-site mailbox which marks each letter with a special Eiffel Tower postmark. 

The next morning we decided to brave the Paris Metro System.  Using my handy Streetwise Paris Map, I plotted our course to Gare St. Lazare to catch the train for our trip to Bayeux and the tour of the Normandy D-Day Beaches.  As it turns out, it really was not that hard- everything is well marked, there are signs posted, etc.  We just walked down to our nearest Metro station, purchased a carnet of 10 tickets from an automated machine, passed through the turnstile and entered the network of hallways leading to the platforms.  We just had to be sure to follow the signs displaying the name of the last stop in the direction we were going and we easily found the correct place. Really, it was simple, but we were still pretty proud of ourselves for figuring it out and making it to the train station that morning.  We rode the same route in reverse on our way back that evening.

Happily, there was a crepe stand near the exit of the Metro on our walk up the hill to our apartment.  We ordered a Nutella and banana crepe- scrumptious!  It was the last crepe we had in Paris.  We stuffed our packs, cleaned the apartment and moved out the next morning.  We rode the Metro to Gare de L’Est and boarded the train to Mannheim, Germany. 

Paris is a city with a million views- everywhere you turn there is some fascinating sight, whether it is a fountain, or building, or bridge.  It is a captivating city with an atmosphere that is romantic and enticing.  Everyone we encountered was warm and hospitable .  In the short time we were there, Paris had gone from being intimidating to inviting.

Sister Trip- Springtime in Bruges

Springtime in Bruges
Bruges, Belgium
April 1-3, 2012

My sisters Joanna, Megan and I had talked about taking a European Sisters' Trip but financial considerations and vacation time constraints always worked against us.  Finally, after years of hoping and dreaming, we were able to embark on a two-week trip to explore a little of Europe.  The beginning of our whirlwind European trip got off to a rocky start.  After boarding our flight on time and taxiing down the runway to take-off, the pilot came on the speaker system to tell us that we had a flat tire and had to return to the gate.  Getting into Brussels, Belgium three hours later than originally expected, we’d been traveling for about 20 hours and still had to take a train to Bruges.  Luckily, our introduction to Europe was relatively seamless.  We found an ATM, pulled out some cash in Euros (€), located the airport train station and bought our tickets.  After a little confusion about what platform we needed to be on and the difference between 1st and 2nd class train cars, we were on the way to our first destination- Bruges, Belgium.

Bruges was the perfect place to spend the first leg of our trip.  Bruges is a small, calm, historical city and gave us a chance to ease into European ways.  The first thing we did upon arrival was stop for Belgian delicacies- waffles and frites.  From there we took a taxi to our lodging- Lut & Bruno Setola B&B (€100/night triple).  The B&B is lovely, located in a quiet residential area just a few blocks from the Markt Square.  The rooms of the B&B occupy the upper level of a three-story building with a central breakfast area.  Lut greeted us and led us to our room- the Red Room.  She gave us a map, some general recommendations and the best advice ever for this extremely walkable city- “just explore the city by turning left and right, left and right.”

We first headed toward Markt Square to take in the quintessential Bruges view of the buildings and bellower surrounding the square.  Our next goal was to find the Concert Hall and the adjacent Office of Tourism just a short walk from the square. But Bruges is made up of a maze of streets, many narrow and cattycornered.  We lost and found our way several times.  Almost by accident we found the Office of Tourism as we wandered into a large fountain square.  

A canal-boat tour (€7/pp) sounded like a relaxing way to get an overview of the city.  We glided through the network of canals taking in highlights like Minnewaterpark, the Begijnhof, various churches and other sights.  Across the street from the canal boat base was Sukerbuyc Chocolaterie where we indulged in our next Belgian delicacy- chocolate.  We bought an assortment of beautiful and delectable morsels in the shape of swans or fleur de lis and in flavors like pistachio and cherry. 

For dinner we headed back to a group of restaurants with indoor and outdoor seating near a square and chose La Source based on the set menu displayed outside.  Sticking to traditional Belgian foods we shared cheese croquettes, moules-frites-(mussels and fries) and Vlaamse Stovery- Flemish beef stew cooked in beer.  After a long and relaxing dinner, we walked back to our B&B.  We were beat and ready to finally go to bed.

The next morning we had a traditional European breakfast of cold cuts, cheese, fruit and bread prepared by Lut, and headed out to explore more of the city.  We set out to find windmills, happening upon stunning canal views and cute little streets along the way.  The windmills were pretty cool- each a little different than the others.  We meandered around an artsy neighborhood with lots of clothing and music shops as we made our way back into the center of town but it was too early for anything to be open. 

We roamed the city some more, strolling through the Burg, browsing the jewelry and art at the former fish market turned flea market and making purchases.  We walked through charming little courtyards, narrow alleyways, along the canals.  On Lut’s recommendation we made our way to Begijnhof, a collection of buildings used to house pious women set around a courtyard full of blooming daffodils.  No talking is allowed within the walls- it is a very tranquil place.  Another very peaceful place we visited was Minnewaterpark, just a short stroll away from Begijnhof.  People relaxed in pairs on park benches or in groups on blankets spread in the grass among the tulip beds.

We got lunch from a little sandwich shop we’d found in a narrow alley earlier that day-we all shared scrumptious ham & cheese and salami & cheese sandwiches toasted and served warm.  We sat by a canal and savored the beautiful weather as much as our paninis.  The sun was shining, the air was warm, spring flowers were blooming- it was a beautiful spring day in Bruges.  We spent the rest of our afternoon roaming around, visiting Astridpark, sitting on park benches and taking in the laidback feeling.  We ambled through residential areas and did a little shopping along one of Bruges main retail streets.  Throughout our walk we’d come upon live performers and musicians- flutists playing in a church courtyard, a guitar player by a city gate, and a particularly awesome dude playing the didgeridoo in the Burg. 

We decided to have one last waffle before we left and stopped at De Vier Winden restaurant near the Markt.  We were given a nice seat outside near a heater so that we could enjoy the views of the square.  Our French waiter was superb- when we ordered wine, he presented us with the bottle and made sure I approved before pouring.  He called us Madame or Mademoiselle.  He was attentive but not overbearing.  By the end of the night he had us giggling and blushing. 

We bought a bottle of wine and relished our last night in Bruges.  Everything was closed, the streets were mostly deserted.  We walked around, talked, laughed and looked in shop windows as we wandered around the maze of streets we’d gotten to know in the two days we’d been there- it was like we had Bruges to ourselves. 

That next morning we loaded up our packs, called a taxi and headed to the train station for the next leg of our trip- Paris, France. Our few days in Bruges were full of exploring and discovering.  Spring flowers were in full bloom- we enjoyed tulips and pansies and fields of daffodils.  For me the highlight of this segment of the trip was just weaving in and out of the city streets, alleys and passageways, taking in a new view with each turn.  I can’t imagine a more delightful time to be in Bruges than the springtime.

 

5 Hour Layover in ATL

 
 
Five Hour Layover in the Atlanta Airport
March 31, 2012

Most of us dread a long layover.  We either want to get where we’re going or just get home and the only thing standing in our way is endless sitting around an airport.  When I was informed that my sisters and I had been moved from a flight with a 2-hr layover to a flight with a 5-hour layover on our way to Europe I was not thrilled.  But with restaurants to enjoy, shops to browse, and even art exhibits to take in we decided to make the most of our time and enjoy our 5-hour layover in Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport (ATL). 

We arrived from Akron/Canton Regional Airport right around noon and decided the first thing we’d do was get lunch.  We wanted Southern food and chose to eat at Paschal’s Restaurant, located in Concourse C.  Our server was a feisty little woman that gave advice like ‘Oh, you don’t want that- this is better!’ and ‘You sure you can eat all that?’  We had a feast of gumbo, mac & cheese, fried chicken and cornbread.  Our server called out ‘You girls have a fun time now!’ as we left.

Next we headed to Xpress Spa in Concourse A for manicures.  We were lucky there are two locations because the one in Concourse C was already full.  Xpress Spa is an oasis in the middle of the airport.  They took our bags and stowed them in lockers.  We were all ushered to massage chairs, given warm towels to refresh, shown a selection of nail polish colors and then received a very pampering manicure.  I loved every minute of it and my nails looked great for almost two weeks.  I definitely plan to visit Xpress Spa anytime I'm in an airport where they are located. 

In the last hour before boarding I wandered around the lower hallways connecting the concourses.  Several art exhibits are displayed in these areas.  I enjoyed a collection of sculptures from Zimbabwe and a series of photographs taken in Antarctica.  Then the girls and I went to On the Border Mexican Restaurant in Course T, just up from our gate, to enjoy some big margaritas before boarding.

We could not believe how quickly the time flew by.  We didn’t even have time to browse any of the clothing & accessory shops, newsstands or gadget stores.   We spent a very fun five hours in between flights at the Atlanta Airport.  Great airport amenities definitely make a long layover bearable if not enjoyable.

Solo Trip- In Chicago on Business

In Chicago on Business
February 19-24, 2012

I was thrilled when I was told I was to attend a week-long microscope training course at McCrone Research Institute in Chicago, Illinois.  I’d wanted to visit Chicago for years but it always lost out to another destination when it came time to pick a new place to go.  But with many attractions open in the evenings after I was out of training, I could make the most of my time in Chicago and finally see a little bit of the city.

I packed up my vehicle and left on Sunday morning, following Interstate 77 North to I-80W to I-90W toward Chicago.  I’d always thought Chicago was just a little too far for a weekend getaway but it was an easy drive and I made it into Chicago in the early afternoon.  I stayed at the Essex Inn based on the facts that it had a daily shuttle to the training center and a huge pool area on the roof.  I was not disappointed.  The pool and gym area was one of the best I’ve ever seen in any business hotel I’ve stayed at.  My room was comfortable and the hotel staff was friendly and helpful. 

Another great perk of the hotel was the ideal location on South Michigan Avenue in the South Loop district.  After checking in, I put on my hat, gloves, scarf and coat and headed out for a little winter walk around the neighborhood.  I crossed the street and walked south through Grant Park toward an area I’d seen as I was driving in- the Agora exhibit, a group of 106 huge cast iron legs and feet assembled in a courtyard.

From there I walked north through the park along Michigan Avenue, past the Art Institute of Chicago and to the Cloud Gate in Millennium Park, passing sculptures and light installations along the way.  Chicago is alive at night and there were many visitors at the Cloud Gate enjoying the Luminous Field experience, a fusion of music and light displayed against the big reflective bean.  Others enjoyed ice skating in the rink nearby.  After exploring the area a little, I headed back to my hotel.

When asked for Chicago deep-dish pizza recommendations the front desk recommended Lou Malnati’s (805 South State Street), a pizza place nearby that delivered to the hotel.  I ordered an individual-sized Classic Cheese Deep-dish Pizza.  I had no idea how much pizza that would actually be.  With the cheese below the chucky sauce, Chicago-style pizza is definitely different than what I’m used to but I loved it!  Still, I was only able to eat one piece of the very substantial pizza pie.

After a long first day of training, I decided to spend Monday night exploring the neighborhood a little.  I ended up making my way up State Street and down Wabash, taking in the lightscapes, the artwork displayed in little corner gardens and stopping at many of the shoe stores and other retail shops as I went along.  All I can say is Chicago has some great window shopping!  On my way back to the hotel I ate at Jimmy Greens (825 South State Street), a sports pub type in the South Loop near my hotel.  While waiting for my dinner, the daily special of chicken tacos, I tried a Chicago Fire shooter, a drink made with cherry and dragonberry rum, red vodka and Red Bull.  This thing packed a punch- I literally skipped back to my hotel!


Tuesday night was full of excitement.  Armed with a tourist map of the city and the advice of the front desk I decided to make my way around that evening using Chicago’s underground and elevated rail system.  I made my way to the John Hancock Center, a 100-story building.  Instead of paying $15 for admission to the observation deck I went to the Signature Room, a restaurant and lounge situated on the 95 & 96^th floors.  I enjoyed an amaretto sour expertly made by a gracious bartender while taking in the amazing view- $13 with tip.  Before leaving, I was sure to stop in the ladies room rumored to have the best view of all.  I have to agree.


As a huge fan of the Bravo series ‘Top Chef’, I am also a fan of Rick Bayless, a reoccurring guest of the show.  A Chicago-native friend suggested I try his restaurant Xoco (449 North Clark Street), telling me his sandwich shop was a great and inexpensive way to enjoy his food.  Although I arrived during normal dinner hours, I was immediately given a place along a little bar dedicated to singles.  I ordered the Woodland Mushroom sandwich and savored the blend of flavors. I regret opting against dessert as I hear the churros are delectable.  After dinner, I was excited to ride the iconic El train back to my hotel. 

On Wednesday I enjoyed pizza and sandwich leftovers and a little shopping.  After debating between selections at Aldo and Aerosoles, I decided to get a mini harmonica necklace from Aldo as well as leopard print loafers and studded black leather boots from Aerosoles.  I spent the rest of the evening enjoying the gym, pool and sauna at the hotel.

I knew that the Art Institute of Chicago was open late on Thursdays but I did not know until I arrived in Chicago and heard from the shuttle driver that it is also free that evening.  After walking through a wing of ancient Asian artwork, I was thrilled to find the ‘Fabric of a New Nation’ exhibit- I love doing needlework of my own and was very inspired by this exhibit of textile and needle arts.

After wrapping up the coursework and taking the certification exam on Friday morning, I headed home.  As I got on the highway, I thought about my week of evening excursions around this warm and welcoming city and how I look forward to visiting again soon.  There is so much more to see and do in Chicago- museums, music, theatre, art, shopping, food and nightlife.  The friendliness of Chicagoans should not go unmentioned.  While eating dinner one night I talked with a guy that said although he loves his native Atlanta he now calls Chicago home.  A man on the El platform and I chatted about our travels.  Anyone I asked for directions was more than happy to help.  To me Chicago has all the culture, sophistication and indulgences as New York City but with the friendliness that the people of the Midwestern states are known for.