Sister Trip- An Afternoon in Columbus/ An Evening at Tribal Connection

Sister Trip
An Afternoon in Columbus
An Evening at Tribal Connection Music Festival
May 12. 2012

I’ve tried unsuccessfully several times to recap our recent weekend trip to the Columbus area. I’ve just been having trouble coming up with the words to convey the kind of amusement that we have on these excursions. Fun has a way of finding me and Megan. We can turn a series of random events into an extravaganza of excitement.

We started the day rolling around in money and it just got better from there. I’m not exactly sure where the idea originated but before leaving for our fun-filled day in Columbus, we decided to ‘make it rain’ with about a hundred $1 bills. We had such a great time throwing the cash into the air and letting it shower down on us, laughing hysterically and posing for pictures. That comical diversion set the tone for our entire day.

We found a hula hoop lying in a parking lot as we walked to the North Market- of course, we were thrilled! Awesome groundscore! The North Market (59 Spruce St.), an indoor bazaar of produce vendors, patisseries, international and specialty food stores, offers many scrumptious selections but alas, we’d had breakfast at the hotel and picked up only a few pastries.

 

As we made our way up High Street into the Short North District a couple of boisterous gay guys stopped us to tell us we were looking good. This was about the third time that day that either or both of us had been complimented. We were feeling pretty awesome! We reluctantly turned down the guys’ proposal to be their zombie brides in the annual Zombie Walk parade later that day and set out to see a few of murals in the thriving artsy neighborhood by following a walking tour of the area.

There are so many eclectic little shops in Short North. We spent a little time shopping for vintage clothing and home items at Flower Child (989 N High St.), browsing high-end clothing at bargain prices at Savvy on a Shoe String (13 W 1st Ave.) and looking at jewelry and other accessories at Substance (783 N High St.). We stopped at Wine on High (789 North High St.) to peruse the bottle selection and have a glass at the upstairs wine bar. We were very disappointed to see that the bar didn’t open until later that afternoon but the gallant owner of the establishment said he was happy to run upstairs to pour us a few glasses of wine. We very much appreciated the effort and were quite pleased with ourselves- we may not be the kind of chicks that close down a bar but we’re certainly the sort of girls that get a bar opened for them.

I’d seen a feature on Sugardaddy's (11 East Gay St.) on a Food Network show ages ago so we were very excited to check out what all the talk is about. Basically, Sugardaddy's produces the most mouth-watering brownies and blondies ever. Several options to choose from made it hard to make our final picks and we each walked out with a few varieties.

At the Topiary Park (Town Street & Washington Avenue) we saw someone that was either an actor performing a moving monologue or a total nutcase flipping out. Still, the garden was a lovely spot to sit and relax a little.

We’d wanted to eat at Dirty Frank’s Hot Dog Palace- who wouldn’t want to eat at a place with that name- but there was a large crowd surrounding the door, we were starving and decided to find a place in the German Village, a stop we make on every Columbus trip. We’re German girls, we LOVE German Village. As soon as I saw the sign for Olde Mohawk (821 Mohawk St.) I knew it was the place for us- upscale pub food, cozy atmosphere, great service. We had a delightful time!

After following a walking tour of German Village, we decided that we were beat and headed back to the hotel. We still had a big night ahead of us. As we pulled up to the Marysville Hampton Inn, we saw a helicopter sitting on a flat trailer in the middle of the parking lot. Megan and I eyed each other, asking the unspoken question- should we jump on this helicopter? We decided against it.


 

Our last destination was the Tribal Connection Music Festival, the event we’d planned our whole weekend around. We were there to see Waterband but The Stagecoach Robbery stole the show. While we sat on the hill listening to Waterband play, Meg and I were compelled to move as soon as we heard Stagecoach’s groovy guitar. We danced the night away with friends we’d met up with that evening, watching fire dancers and hula hoopers illuminate the night.

The hotel pool area was closed, the lights were off and the water glowed blue- it was too inviting not to spend a few minutes doing cannonballs into the pool and basking in the comfort of the hot tub after a crazy night. Megan and I had declared that this summer was going to be the best ever and this day was the perfect kick-off to months of fun!

Ohio Day Trip- The Wineries of I-76

Ohio Day Trip
Enjoying the Wineries of I-76
April 21, 2012

Of the many vineyards and wineries scattered around Northeast Ohio, a few are located near the Interstate 76 corridor between Akron and Youngstown.   While working on a project in the area, I noticed signs along the highway for a few wineries that I had not yet been to.  I was eager to try new places so Meg and I spent a chilly spring afternoon visiting some of the wineries located off of I-76. 

We decided to drive to the winery that was furthest from home and work our way back.  Our first stop was Mastropietro Winery (14558 Ellsworth Road, Berlin Center, Ohio 44401).   Their property is lovely, on acres of quiet rural land with a small lake to relax beside.  The tasting room has plenty of tables, a large fireplace and a selection of wine-themed items to browse.  I was disappointed to find they were currently sold out of Riesling, my favorite variety.  Although they do serve dinner after 6:pm on Friday and Saturday nights, we were too early and decided to move on after sampling several of their wines. 

Nearby Myrddin Winery (3020 Scenic Avenue, Berlin Center, Ohio 44401) was our next stop.  Located on the shore of Lake Milton, the wooded setting is quite picturesque.  In addition to the Tasting Room, there are many outdoor seating options including a large deck off of the Tasting Room which, when completed, will offer even more seating with views of the Lake and surrounding area.  The owner seems very laidback and friendly, asking us about our afternoon, giving us recommendations and directions to the next winery on our agenda.   After sampling a few selections, we chose a table with a beautiful lake view and shared some delicious Spinach & Artichoke Dip while enjoying a glass of wine. I found Myrddin to be quite charming.

There’s always one winery that stands out because of the beautiful setting, delicious wine or quirky service.  The next winery stood out for all those reasons.  Barrel Run Crossing Winery & Vineyard (3272 Industry Road, Rootstown, Ohio 44272) is located on a family farm beside some railroad tracks hence the train-theme-named wines.  The tasting room is in the farmhouse with additional outdoor seating.  When we walked in we were greeted by a friendly young man with a fun personality.  In between making wine and music recommendations, he entertained us with sing-alongs and funny stories.  We sat beside the fireplace, enjoying  hot apple pie with ice cream while sipping glasses of All Aboard, a sweet wine, and Locomotion, a drier white.  Barrel Run offers a kind of homey atmosphere that is very comfortable and relaxing.

Our last stop was Viking Vineyard & Winery (268 Old Forge Road, Kent, Ohio 44240), also set in an attractive area with pond views.  In addition to a large tasting room, they also offer outdoor seating as well as a banquet facility.  After sampling many of their selections, we decided to share a glass of wine while snacking on a little bread with dipping oil.  As always, each of the wineries had their own unique personality and appeal.  We enjoyed each of the wineries we visited that afternoon and look forward to visiting again. 

Sister Trip- From Tulips to Trams in Amsterdam

Sister Trip- From Tulips to Trams in Amsterdam
Amsterdam- The Netherlands
April 9-13, 2012

The last leg of our trip got off to a rocky start.  Many holiday travelers were making their way back after weekend excursions and  we were fortunate to find seats on the train from Cologne to Amsterdam on Easter Monday.  It was pouring down rain when we arrived at Central Station.  We caught Tram #17 to our stop but then walked a block in the wrong direction.  When we finally found the general vicinity of our houseboat, we couldn’t see any house numbers.  After wandering around in the rain weighed down by our packs for quite a while, we finally stumbled upon the Houseboat Osiris (HomeAway Listing # 233441- $620/4 nights).

Furnished with basic pieces and simply decorated, it was the roomiest of all of our accommodations and had a very comfortable, homey feeling.   Moored at the intersection of Jacob van Lennepkade and Singelgracht canals, the houseboat is in a great location.  Two outdoor spaces, one open-air patio and one covered porch, made for delightful people watching.   

Just a short walk away is Leidseplein, an area full of restaurants, nightlife and big crowds.  Even though it was raining heavily and the wind was blowing hard enough to turn my umbrella inside out, the streets were full of revelers enjoying their night out in Amsterdam.  After checking a few restaurant menus we chose an obvious tourist trap conspicuously located facing a square in the heart the area.  Pub food and good prices drew us in to the Pancake Corner and we were not disappointed- we devoured our meals.  We walked around and window-shopped, stopping in a little café’ called Dolphins for the best refreshing juice drinks, browsing a gallery of glass piece and  picking up an assortment of treats to stock the kitchen. 

I’d always pictured Amsterdam as laid-back and easy-going but it is actually fast paced and reserved.  Let me just take a moment to warn you of the many perils of momentarily distraction while in Amsterdam.  I’m sure being hit by a tram would cause a fair amount of suffering.  And the cyclists-they come out of nowhere, attempting to weave around tourists trying to cross the designated bike lane.  Between dodging the trams and avoiding cyclist while being sure not to step off into a canal, Amsterdam could be a hazardous place for those that don’t have their wits about them. 

While the girls went grocery shopping, I took the #12 Tram to the Van Gogh Museum (€14/pp) on Tuesday afternoon.  Although I’d been warned of long lines, the queue moved quickly and I was at the ticket counter within five minutes.  The Van Gogh Museum displays not only the works of Vincent Van Gogh, but also the paintings of artists that inspired him as well as other artists of his time.  Not a museum with multiple wings and vast galleries, it was easy to see the collection in an afternoon. 

We specifically planned our trip around when the tulips would be blooming.  Although the forecast had predicted gloomy weather for most of our visit, we were very excited to have a gorgeous Wednesday to visit Keukenhof, the world’s largest flower garden.  We took the tram to Central Station, a train to the airport and caught a bus to Lisse from there.  Fields of spring flowers planted in rows of vibrant colors- all shades of pink, purple, red and yellow- were the first thing I saw from the bus window when we exited the highway.  When we walked into Keukenhof, I was awed by the brilliant scene.  We made our way haphazardly through the park, following meandering paths through the landscaped gardens of tulips, hyacinth and daffodils.   Visiting Keukenhof and seeing the tulip fields was one of the highlights of our trip.

I woke up early on Thursday morning and rode two trams, then walked along the Herensgracht to the Museum of Bags & Purses (€8.50/pp) Although it is a small museum, the collection is immense.  From some of the earliest means of carrying items to the latest designer bags, there was a chronological exhibit of intricately made items- beaded, lace, leather and many other materials.   In addition to the exquisitely made bags and purses, other accessories like jewelry, shoes and hats were also on display.  As an accessory-maniac, I was in heaven!   After viewing the collection I browsed the gift shop, full of beautifully made bags along with other purse-related items like wallets and mirrors .  I decided to splurge a little and bought a bold black satchel , a few postcards and small gifts for Jo & Meg to remember the trip by.

 

We opted against the Hop-on/Hop-off canal boat ride and instead created our own Tram Tour.  At €7.50/day, a tram ticket is much less expensive!  We rode Tram #17 to Dam Square, which was full of performers in costume- I turned to see Jo completely transfixed by the whole scene.  One stop away is the Begijnhof Court- although the exterior courtyard is bustling with visitors, just through the door and inside the walls all is peaceful.  We walked around the gardens, appreciating the serenity in the middle of the bustling city.  Then on to Westermarkt to explore that area a little, visiting a little cheese shop with delicious samples, a juice bar that looked like CBGBs and a neat little place called Electric Ladyland, a museum dedicated to fluorescent rocks, minerals and crystals.  We spent a little time walking around the cute Jordaan district, then rode the tram to Vondel Park and strolled around there a bit.  

We wanted to spend our last night in Amsterdam the way we spent our first- eating at the Pancake Corner!  We each ordered a pancake (more a crepe than what Americans consider a pancake) - Meg’s with chocolate, pears and whipped cream, Jo’s with chocolate and bananas, mine with bacon, mushrooms and cheese- all delicious!  The next morning we packed up our stuff, took a tram to the train station, took a train to the airport and flew home.

Amsterdam didn’t possess the magical quality some destinations seemed to have.   Instead, Amsterdam was full of subtle elements that made it memorable- the arch of the bridges, the canals glowing gold in the streetlamp light, peach juice drinks, Choco Swing candy bars.  The experiences I shared with my sisters made it unforgettable- eating homemade dinners together, taking funny pictures of ourselves in giant wooden clogs, spending five last minutes sitting on the covered deck watching cyclists pedal over the bridge.  I cannot imagine taking two-week, four-country whirlwind tour of Europe with anyone but my sisters!

Sister Trip- Easter in Germany

Sister Trip- Easter in Germany

Mannheim, Bacharach & Cologne, Germany
April 6-9, 2012

Although we are a mix of German, French and Irish descent, it is our German heritage that we most identify with. My grandmother was very proud of her lineage and often reminisced about German culture and traditions. After paying tribute to our Grampy by visiting the D-Day Beaches, we wanted to honor our Momo by visiting her ancestral home of Mannheim, Germany. Mannheim is known for its pretzel stands and that is the first thing we saw when we exited the train platform. We stashed our luggage in a locker and I put my Lonely Planet German phrasebook to good use by asking the Information Desk attendant for a street map and directions, then headed off to explore the city on foot.

From there we walked to Luisenpark. Named one of Europe’s most beautiful parks, Luisenpark (€6/pp) is a small amusement park with gondola rides (€2/pp), flower gardens and lots of activities for children. The gondola ride was quite exciting- huge koi surround the boat hoping to catch morsels of food in their giant mouths. It looks like a feeding frenzy and is actually a little freaky. We strolled around the tranquil Chinese Garden and played on various amusing features designed for children but also quite fun for young-at-heart adults like hanging bridges and stepping stones through babbling little streams.

Later that afternoon we caught a regional train from Mannheim to Bacharach, changing trains in Bingen. While most of the train riders in Belgium and France were subdued and kept to themselves, the train in Germany was lively and loud with people laughing over card games, children playing with each other in the aisles and older women trading sections of the newspaper. I’ll just admit that we’re a loud and lively family- now I know that is a part of our proud German heritage.

We arrived in Bacharach in the early evening. Loaded down with our packs we walked into town searching for a path to our next accommodations- the Burg Stahleck, a 12th century castle turned hostel (€20/pp/night), which sits perched high above the Rhine River. We found our way up the hill, climbing more than 300 stone steps in agony under the weight of our belongings. When we finally made it to the top, many of the people relaxing in the castle’s courtyard turned to give us knowing smiles, completely understanding what an undertaking the climb really is.

We checked in and were shown to our room, a tiny dorm with four bunk beds, a few cabinets, a small table and a shared bathroom down the hall. Although our room was sparsely furnished, we had an incredible view of the Rhine River Valley from our window. We spent the rest of our evening exploring the castle, climbing the winding stairway in the tower and enjoying some wine at a picnic table overlooking the town and river. The hostel offers a variety of amenities for the traveling family. There is a children’s game room, an arcade and a Ping-Pong table located in one of the towers. Wi-Fi and computer access are both offered. There are shelves of games and books and many ways of entertaining a group of all ages. I’ll admit, as three child-free women in our late-20s to mid-30s, the packs of screaming kids did sometimes wear on our nerves but for the most part the experience of sleeping in a castle more than made up for the inconvenience of wailing children. Except in the morning- man, are kids loud!

Almost everyone ventures out to enjoy their day by mid-morning so we savored getting ready alone in the empty shared bathroom. We headed down the hill and strolled all around Bacharach, walking up and down the city streets, out of city gates, along the vineyards, everywhere we could explore. I completely understand why Germany is the setting of fairytales. Castles are perched above quaint little villages of half-timbered buildings and homes set on cobblestone streets. The air seemed fresher and easier to breathe. It is like wine grows on trees here. It is a fantasyland. We all loved it!

After shopping for handmade lace scarves (€3 each) and browsing some other shops, we stopped for lunch at Rusticana, a cozy little restaurant that serves traditional German food. We ordered schnitzel, bratwurst, homemade soup and a small jug of wine. Everything was delicious. As we left, we passed St. Jozefskapelle, a small chapel built into a row of houses. At one time Catholic churches did not want to stand out in this region, but we were immediately drawn to this sanctuary. There was something very peaceful and comforting about this place.

After lunch we made our way back up the hill and curled up in our bunk beds to relax a little- I read a book, Meg played on her iPad. Four hours later, we all woke up. Our bunk beds were so comfy and cozy and we slept so soundly that we’d napped the afternoon and much of the evening away. We got up, got ready and walked toward town to find some dinner. On our way we stopped to view Wernerkapelle, a Gothic church built in 1287 and destroyed in the 17th century when debris from the castle above fell on the church while under siege. From the ruins, we could hear organ music coming from St. Peters Church nearby and sat on the steps outside listening. We found a little pizzeria right across the street from our lunch spot and enjoyed choices like the ‘Dracula’ pizza, a pie with two kinds of spicy peppers, mushrooms and other toppings which was scrumptious!

Although it was supposed to be very cold and possibly snowing on Easter Sunday morning, the sun was shining and it was relatively warm. We set out to explore a little more, following a designated hiking trail past pastures of goats, through the vineyards and by several watchtowers situated around the village. We had a blast on our hike, stopping for several photo opportunities along the way and making the most of the surprisingly beautiful day.

After hiking around the German countryside, we walked into town. We were surprised to find many of the town’s restaurants open, their patios full of people also enjoying the weather. Megan and I were thrilled when we found a sign indicating that the restaurant before us, Friedrich Bastian's Weingut zum Grüner Baum, boasted the extraordinary experience of a 15-glass wine tasting carousel and bore Rick Steve’s stamp of approval. After spending the morning exploring the vineyards the grapes used to make these wines were grown in, we were ready to sample the end product. Diners at other tables smiled and nodded when the large carousel of wine was delivered to our table. We enjoyed a lunch of frankfurters and potato salad while tasting each of the wines. We used a rating system to keep track of our favorites and purchased a well-priced bottle from the wine shop to enjoy later.

That evening we stayed in and enjoyed an Easter Feast buffet at the hostel- they had everything from ham and kraut to beef and potatoes, a huge selection of sides, desserts and candy. I filled three plates with bite size portions of just about every option. We spent the rest of our evening drinking wine, constructing a fortress made of Legos and playing cards in the children’s game room. The next morning we woke up early, had breakfast, packed our bags and walked down the hill to the train station. It was a dreary morning as we prepared to leave Germany and head to our final destination of Amsterdam. The train ride up the Rhine was pleasant, often displaying views of castles on either side of the river. We all fell asleep on the train and missed our stop at the Cologne Central Station but we just hopped off and caught the next train back.

We stashed our bags in the most deluxe of airport lockers- put all your stuff into a metal box, close the door and the contents are whisked away into the depths of the station storage system to be retrieved later with a magnetic swipe card. I had heard that the Cologne Cathedral was very near the Central Station and since we had an hour before our train to Amsterdam we decided to take a look. The church is literally across the courtyard, just steps from the station. We walked around the gigantic Gothic church constructed during medieval times and then back to browse some of the stores in the station before leaving for the last leg of our trip- Amsterdam.
We agree that out of all the places we visited, Germany was our favorite. We were able to relax, go at a slower pace, take in our surroundings and enjoy a little of what the area has to offer. We were in the land of our ancestors doing the things we love to do- hiking, enjoying local foods and drinking wine. I can’t help but think that we felt so at ease in Germany because the culture is in our blood. Visiting Germany with my sisters is bound to be one of my all-time best memories!

Day Trip- Tour of the D-Day Beaches

Day Trip- Tour of the D-Day Beaches
Normandy Region, France
April 5, 2012

We wanted to honor the memory of our grandfather and pay our respects to all that bravely faced battle on D-Day.  Our Grampy was one of the many heroic troops that stormed the beaches of Normandy on June 6, 1944.  Part of the Army Infantry, he waded out of the English Channel and advanced onto the shore of Omaha Beach.   German troops stationed on the cliffs above the beach showered them with heavy gunfire.  My grandfather was told ‘You will see people fall on the left and right of you- just keep running forward.’   And that is what my Grampy did until he was hit in the head and leg.  He spent months in a hospital rehabilitating from his wounds. 

After researching the benefits of a tour guide vs. a self-guided tour of the area, we decided that €60/pp for a knowledgeable guide and driver was a pretty good deal.  We booked online with Normandy Sightseeing Tours and purchased train tickets from Paris to Bayeux and back for a day in the Normandy Region of France.  The views of the French countryside were idyllic.  Sheep dotted rolling hills, huge old cathedrals stood in the middle of tiny walled villages.  It was all as quaint as it could possibly be. Our destination of Bayeux was equally picturesque and I wish we’d had more time to explore the town and surrounding area.  After getting off the train, we set off walking in the general direction of the town square, seeking out Place du Quebec, a small square behind the Churchill Hotel, our rendezvous spot.  We picnicked beside a stream while waiting for our guide. 

 

When Sylvain "Sly" pulled up, I turned to Jo and said ‘I hope he’s our guide!’  I’ll just go ahead and say it- he’s fairly dreamy.  I mean, he’s got this French accent and a dry sense of humor and he looks nice.  But on top of that he’s very knowledgeable about the history of the region and has the ability to explain military strategy and situations in a way that was insightful and thought-provoking.  He added so many details to the story that the history books don’t include and gave us a new perspective on what went down. 

Sylvain said that we could take the highway directly to our first official tour destination but he preferred to take back roads so that his guests could see Normandy.  I am thrilled that he did- the area is just breathtaking!  We passed a thousand-year-old church, a farm that produces award-winning apple brandy, a monument to a battle between the French and English hundreds of years ago.  I decided that I want to return and tour the area by bicycle- there are just so many magnificent views to take in. 

We arrived at our first stop- Pointe du Hoc, 100-foot cliffs where the Germans had stationed 6 heavy guns capable of shooting targets miles away.  Army Rangers succeeded in disabling the guns but misinformation and lack of communication made the mission a very difficult one with very heavy losses.  As Sylvain told us, the small craters that pocked the area were made by the Air Force attacking from the sky and the big pits were the result of the Navy bombarding from sea.  Looking down on the beach from the top of the cliffs, it was easy to recognize how difficult it would have been to scale those walls and accomplish the objective. 

Our next stop was Omaha Beach, the beach my grandfather stormed almost 70 years before.  We walked toward the shore and stood facing inland, looking at the hills and cliffs above.  We were all overcome with emotion over the sacrifice our grandfather made on that beach.  The weather was bleak that day, much as it was on D-Day.  There were high winds and sporadic rain and it was really cold but it added to our understanding of what the troops went through.  We collected vials of sand and sea shells, paid remembrance to our grandfather, grouped hugged and walked to the van. 
As we walked into the American Cemetery, we encountered a group of boisterous teens on a school trip.  As they were laughing and hamming it up for pictures, Sylvain approached them, explained that this cemetery deserved respect and reverence and asked them to behave more appropriately.  He then continued with his tour.  Sly said that we could take some time to walk around the cemetery, go to the Visitor’s Center or observe the flag ceremony. They asked for Americans to participate in taking down and folding the flag and Joanna volunteered.  As she helped lower the flag, a bugler sounded ‘Taps’.  We were all moved to tears. 

The last destination on our tour was Longues-sur-Mer, another German battery.  Still displayed in the bunkers are the actual four guns with a range of 15 miles, enough to defend Omaha and Gold Beaches.  But the Allied Forces were able to destroy them and the evidence of the damage inflicted can be observed in those bunkers.    

By the end of the tour, we were cold, hungry and tired.  But the daytrip to the Normandy Region and our tour of the D-Day Beaches were outstanding and sharing the experience with my sisters made it even more special.  We were able to pay homage to a man that was very special to us and gain some understanding of the life experiences that shaped him.  Touring the D-Day Beaches was the most moving experience of our entire trip. 

D-Day Photograph- "Taxis to Hell – and Back – Into the Jaws of Death" is a historic photograph taken on June 6, 1944, by Robert F. Sargent, a Chief Photographer's Mate in the United States Coast Guard.  Public domain; official U.S. Coast Guard photograph.