Sister Trip- From Tulips to Trams in Amsterdam

Sister Trip- From Tulips to Trams in Amsterdam
Amsterdam- The Netherlands
April 9-13, 2012

The last leg of our trip got off to a rocky start.  Many holiday travelers were making their way back after weekend excursions and  we were fortunate to find seats on the train from Cologne to Amsterdam on Easter Monday.  It was pouring down rain when we arrived at Central Station.  We caught Tram #17 to our stop but then walked a block in the wrong direction.  When we finally found the general vicinity of our houseboat, we couldn’t see any house numbers.  After wandering around in the rain weighed down by our packs for quite a while, we finally stumbled upon the Houseboat Osiris (HomeAway Listing # 233441- $620/4 nights).

Furnished with basic pieces and simply decorated, it was the roomiest of all of our accommodations and had a very comfortable, homey feeling.   Moored at the intersection of Jacob van Lennepkade and Singelgracht canals, the houseboat is in a great location.  Two outdoor spaces, one open-air patio and one covered porch, made for delightful people watching.   

Just a short walk away is Leidseplein, an area full of restaurants, nightlife and big crowds.  Even though it was raining heavily and the wind was blowing hard enough to turn my umbrella inside out, the streets were full of revelers enjoying their night out in Amsterdam.  After checking a few restaurant menus we chose an obvious tourist trap conspicuously located facing a square in the heart the area.  Pub food and good prices drew us in to the Pancake Corner and we were not disappointed- we devoured our meals.  We walked around and window-shopped, stopping in a little café’ called Dolphins for the best refreshing juice drinks, browsing a gallery of glass piece and  picking up an assortment of treats to stock the kitchen. 

I’d always pictured Amsterdam as laid-back and easy-going but it is actually fast paced and reserved.  Let me just take a moment to warn you of the many perils of momentarily distraction while in Amsterdam.  I’m sure being hit by a tram would cause a fair amount of suffering.  And the cyclists-they come out of nowhere, attempting to weave around tourists trying to cross the designated bike lane.  Between dodging the trams and avoiding cyclist while being sure not to step off into a canal, Amsterdam could be a hazardous place for those that don’t have their wits about them. 

While the girls went grocery shopping, I took the #12 Tram to the Van Gogh Museum (€14/pp) on Tuesday afternoon.  Although I’d been warned of long lines, the queue moved quickly and I was at the ticket counter within five minutes.  The Van Gogh Museum displays not only the works of Vincent Van Gogh, but also the paintings of artists that inspired him as well as other artists of his time.  Not a museum with multiple wings and vast galleries, it was easy to see the collection in an afternoon. 

We specifically planned our trip around when the tulips would be blooming.  Although the forecast had predicted gloomy weather for most of our visit, we were very excited to have a gorgeous Wednesday to visit Keukenhof, the world’s largest flower garden.  We took the tram to Central Station, a train to the airport and caught a bus to Lisse from there.  Fields of spring flowers planted in rows of vibrant colors- all shades of pink, purple, red and yellow- were the first thing I saw from the bus window when we exited the highway.  When we walked into Keukenhof, I was awed by the brilliant scene.  We made our way haphazardly through the park, following meandering paths through the landscaped gardens of tulips, hyacinth and daffodils.   Visiting Keukenhof and seeing the tulip fields was one of the highlights of our trip.

I woke up early on Thursday morning and rode two trams, then walked along the Herensgracht to the Museum of Bags & Purses (€8.50/pp) Although it is a small museum, the collection is immense.  From some of the earliest means of carrying items to the latest designer bags, there was a chronological exhibit of intricately made items- beaded, lace, leather and many other materials.   In addition to the exquisitely made bags and purses, other accessories like jewelry, shoes and hats were also on display.  As an accessory-maniac, I was in heaven!   After viewing the collection I browsed the gift shop, full of beautifully made bags along with other purse-related items like wallets and mirrors .  I decided to splurge a little and bought a bold black satchel , a few postcards and small gifts for Jo & Meg to remember the trip by.

 

We opted against the Hop-on/Hop-off canal boat ride and instead created our own Tram Tour.  At €7.50/day, a tram ticket is much less expensive!  We rode Tram #17 to Dam Square, which was full of performers in costume- I turned to see Jo completely transfixed by the whole scene.  One stop away is the Begijnhof Court- although the exterior courtyard is bustling with visitors, just through the door and inside the walls all is peaceful.  We walked around the gardens, appreciating the serenity in the middle of the bustling city.  Then on to Westermarkt to explore that area a little, visiting a little cheese shop with delicious samples, a juice bar that looked like CBGBs and a neat little place called Electric Ladyland, a museum dedicated to fluorescent rocks, minerals and crystals.  We spent a little time walking around the cute Jordaan district, then rode the tram to Vondel Park and strolled around there a bit.  

We wanted to spend our last night in Amsterdam the way we spent our first- eating at the Pancake Corner!  We each ordered a pancake (more a crepe than what Americans consider a pancake) - Meg’s with chocolate, pears and whipped cream, Jo’s with chocolate and bananas, mine with bacon, mushrooms and cheese- all delicious!  The next morning we packed up our stuff, took a tram to the train station, took a train to the airport and flew home.

Amsterdam didn’t possess the magical quality some destinations seemed to have.   Instead, Amsterdam was full of subtle elements that made it memorable- the arch of the bridges, the canals glowing gold in the streetlamp light, peach juice drinks, Choco Swing candy bars.  The experiences I shared with my sisters made it unforgettable- eating homemade dinners together, taking funny pictures of ourselves in giant wooden clogs, spending five last minutes sitting on the covered deck watching cyclists pedal over the bridge.  I cannot imagine taking two-week, four-country whirlwind tour of Europe with anyone but my sisters!