International Travel- Peru

Lima, Cusco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu
April 16-23, 2011

We were supposed to go to Orlando. Researching a week-long trip to Florida, I decided to check prices to Peru on a whim. When I realized that the difference wasn’t that big, I convinced J to at least consider a change in location. Although it wasn’t J’s idea of a vacation spot, Peru was a top destination for me- I’d wanted to visit from the moment I saw Machu Picchu on the TV in my teens. I was ecstatic when J agreed to spend a week exploring Lima, Cusco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu.

I planned the trip utilizing travel websites like TripAdvisor and guidebooks from the library. I was able to reserve tickets for PeruRail online and started corresponding with private tour guides through email. We got the necessary vaccinations and prescriptions for altitude sickness and food poisoning. Our first-aid kit consisted of band-aids, bug spray, skin ointment and Pepto-Bismol. This would be our first time traveling to another continent but I was armed with the tools I needed to plan for any contingency.

Day 1- Traveling from Lima to Cusco and into the Sacred Valley and Ollantaytambo, Peru

Although I usually have a detailed itinerary for every trip, I quickly learned that this wasn’t the type of journey for a regimented schedule. We arrived in Lima, Peru around 11:pm- we thought we had about 5 hours to kill before we could check into our flight to Cusco but couldn’t find it on the out-going flight list. Our fears were confirmed hours later when rumors of a 5 hour delay made their way down the line at check-in. It seemed silly to go to a hotel for such a short time when we had only a few hours to wait, but after spending nearly 12 hours in the Lima airport, we regretted not having a place to take a shower or stretch out to sleep. Instead we sat on the floor, leaning against our backpacks, trying in vain to get a little bit of comfort. I was jealous of the trekkers that had their sleeping pads.

The delay had its upside- we met several interesting travelers while waiting in the Lima airport. A man and his wife from Salt Lake City were preparing to start the trek to Machu Picchu on Tuesday. A girl from Mississippi was planning to spend a few months in Peru learning Spanish. We enjoyed lamenting about the situation and sharing our plans. Finally, we boarded our flight to Cusco at around 10:30am.

After all the travel bumps and delays, we were ecstatic to see our driver standing in front of the Cusco Airport. He quickly got us settled in the car and artfully weaved in and out of airport traffic, honking his horn at every pedestrian that got near. Even though he’d waited for hours, he was happy to point out the sights as we made our way out of Cusco. J and I looked out the windows with wide eyes taking in the city and watched the scenery change as we descended into the Sacred Valley.

The higher altitudes didn’t seem to be much of an issue but we could instantly feel the difference in elevation when we started up the stairway that led to our hotel in Ollantaytambo, Peru, at 9,100 feet above sea level. Hostal Iskay ($40/night) is built on original Inca terraces and walls, has tranquil gardens, fountains and stunning views of the Ollantaytambo ruins. Set away from the main square, the hotel offers a lot of privacy. We enjoyed a quiet and comfortable stay.

After a much needed nap, we set out in the late afternoon to see Ollantaytambo. The sun sets early in the Urubamba River Valley and it was dark by the time we made our way through cobblestone streets toward the main square. We happened upon Puka Rumi restaurant, a place that had been recommended by our hotel.

We entered through a courtyard and found the interior of the restaurant cozy and intimate with no more than 8 tables, each lit by candlelight. This is where I had my first Pisco sour, a wonderful drink that tastes like a Peruvian margarita. After a delicious dinner of steak with red pepper sauce and pizza with artichokes, mushrooms and onions, we walked back to our hotel and fell asleep to the sound of river water rushing outside our window.

Day 2- Sacred Valley Via Ferrata & Zip Lining

We woke up early for one of our most anticipated events of the entire trip- rock climbing and zip lining with Sacred Valley Via Ferrata & Zip Lining (265 soles per person). We enjoyed a breakfast buffet at El Hautacay (included with our room), a small restaurant and shop next to our hotel. Areo, the owner of the adventure company, picked us up in the lobby of the hotel and treated us like old friends from the start, asking us about our home and telling us more about the Sacred Valley. The mountain we were climbing, Kunog, was only 10 minutes outside of Ollantaytambo and we were soon suited up and ready to go. Areo introduced us to Marco and Alex, our guides for the day, and gave us a talk on safety, demonstrating how to use the gear. Soon we were making our way up a short path to start the climb.

There was a moment at the beginning when I wondered if I’d gotten myself in over my head but the higher I climbed and more confident I was using the safety equipment, the more relaxed I felt. The view grew more spectacular the higher we went. Via ferrata is a safety system combined with a series of metal handholds installed on the rock face in the most difficult areas
making climbing easier for beginners while still providing a challenge. Although it was a strenuous climb, it is not an activity that anyone in normal health cannot complete. The scariest part of the 400 meter climb was crossing the 20 meter cable bridge- with shaky legs it is hard to even get started. But I followed Marco’s instructions and was soon inching my way across a cable bridge stretched over the jagged edges of the rocks below.

 

We’d climbed to the top; now we were going to zip line down.  J and I had zip lined before but had always been in a canopy of trees.  These zip lines were out in the open, stretching from mountain to mountain, each measuring 400 to 500 meters long and getting up to super speeds- what an exhilarating ride!  The combined experience of climbing to the top of the mountain and zipping down was one of the highlights of our entire trip.

 

We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring Ollantaytambo.  We had sandwiches for lunch at the Hearts Cafe located on the main square.  I had another Pisco Sour and Josh tried Cusquena Dark, the Peruvian national beer brand.  We sat outside and watched the activity in the middle of town then strolled through traditional Inca settlements, along streets with canals of rushing water running down the middle, going into little shops and walking around the artisan market outside the entrance to the ruins. 

Safety was never a concern while we were in Peru.  There is an obvious police presence throughout the areas that are popular with tourists.  Venders are polite and not at all pushy although I did have one unique bargaining experience- I asked a young girl the price of an item and when she replied ’20 soles’ another merchant chimed in ‘No, charge her 25!’

 Day 3- Machu Picchu

I found it hard to sleep the night before we went to Machu Picchu.  We rose early for the first train out of Ollantaytambo- PeruRail Expedition (about $70 pp roundtrip).  We got a taxi, just for the experience of riding in an enclosed motorcycle, for the short ride to the train station on the outskirts of Ollantaytambo.  We purchased sandwiches and a brownie to take for lunch at Cafe Mayo on the train station platform. The entire train experience was delightful- I enjoyed chatting with our seatmates, a group of teachers from the Washington, DC area.  Snacks came in the cutest little PeruRail brown paper bags.  It was all topped by magnificent views of the rushing Urubamba River, snow capped Andes Mountains, lush jungle foliage and ancient ruins scattered throughout the 1.5 hour journey.
 

We arrived in Aguas Calientes, walked to the Centro Cultura to purchase our tickets for Machu Picchu ($46/pp) and to the buses for the ride up the mountain ($14/pp roundtrip).  I was expecting rickety school bus type vehicles- they were actually Mercedes tour buses with wide comfortable seating.  As we wound our way up, I took in the fantastic views of the surrounding mountain peaks.  The woman sitting beside me commented that the mountains in this area reminded her of China, her home country.

We finally arrived at Machu Picchu and secured our special Machu Picchu passport stamp.  Instead of entering the complex right away, we took a winding uphill path to a spot that overlooks much of the ruins.  My first view of Machu Picchu (at 8,000 feet) was the city coming in and out of a foggy haze- the image perfectly projected the magical aura that surrounds this mysterious place. 

From there we decided to hike along the Inca Trail to Inti Punku, or the Sun Gate (at 9,000 feet).  Walking along the Inca Trail was a unique experience- we made our way along the cobblestone road laid by the Incas hundreds of years ago.  Wild orchids and other flowers grow amongst huge rock formations.  The ruins would intermittently come out from behind the fog until finally appearing in full view when the haze cleared mid-morning.  As an avid hiker, I enjoyed every minute of it.  But I’ll be honest- it was pretty hot and steamy, the trail had many stairs, was uneven and slippery.  We witnessed people turn around saying the terrain, the heights, the heat were too much.  It was probably on this hour-long uphill hike that J started planning his rebellion.  By the time we made it back to the main complex, J declared that he refused to walk up another hill or climb another flight up steps. 

For the rest of the visit, we took everything a little bit more slowly.  We passed through the Main Gate, which was the original access gate to the city complex, and started exploring the ruins.  There were new and unique discoveries around every twist and turn.  We came upon several creatures living within the city walls- lizards, birds, mountain viscacha, a member of the chinchilla family and, of course, llamas which roam freely through the area.  Running water still flows through the complex utilizing a series of canals and fountains that run along the passageways.  A quiet and shady area away from the crowds can be found in the Sunken Plaza.  As I made my way through the dwellings that used to house the royal family as well as the commoners, I tried to imagine the way it might have been to live as an Inca in the time that Machu Picchu was populated. 

When we’d made our way through the Machu Picchu complex (utilizing a self-guided tour from Moon Handbooks ‘Cusco & Machu Picchu’), we headed back down the mountain to Aguas Calientes for dinner.  We chose a table next to the rushing Urubamba River at Toto’s House Restaurant and enjoyed Pisco Sours and Cusquena to unwind after our action-packed day.  I still crave the distinctive flavors of their quinoa chowder, a tomato-based soup with grain, lots of veggies and a poached egg on top. 

Riding the train on our way back to Ollantaytambo, I realized that Machu Picchu is a lot like an amusement park- while it was incredible and inspiring it was also crowded and hot and involved a whole a lot of walking.  It cost 1 sole to use the bathroom; fortunately, the cost included toilet paper.  Still, visiting Machu Picchu was a dream come true and exploring the ancient city is one of the most stirring and extraordinary experiences I’ve ever had. 

Day 4- Traveling to Cusco

 We spent our last morning in Ollantaytambo relaxing in the town square, strolling along the city streets and buying gifts for friends and family.  Looking back, I wish I’d bought more in the Sacred Valley- the markets and prices were much better than what I found later in Cusco. 

I promised J we’d go at a more relaxed pace and he was happy to hear the next few sights were accessible by car and little hiking.  Our adventure started by paying three soles to cross a creaking bridge, then maneuvering up a long and winding dirt path which took us through rolling countryside, deeper and deeper into unknown territory.  Finally, I saw a parking lot with a few buses, cars and a group of corralled horses.  We were at our first stop- the circular terraces known as Moray.  Visually, the curving lines of Moray’s structure are quite pleasing.  But beliefs about its use, contending that it is anything from an ancient agricultural laboratory to the center of a spiritual force field, add to the mystifying allure of this extraordinary place.

After Moray we made our way to the Salinas de Maras, a series of terraces constructed by ancient Incas and still used to mine salt today.  Our driver chuckled when J explained that his achy legs are the reason we chose not to walk down into the valley to investigate the operation a little more closely.  The art in the small chapel on sight was a lovely surprise.  Over and over we were moved by the religious art we encountered on our trip. 

We took in many sights from the back seat as we drove through the Sacred Valley toward Cusco- courtyards full of handmade clay bricks, rusted but intricate iron gates, harvests of corn laying out in the sun to dry and political signs everywhere.  Many of the tour guides, drivers and locals we spoke with were happy to explain Peruvian political structure, history and their opinion of past, current and potential leaders.

The moment we pulled up to our hotel in Cusco, Andenes Al Cielo ($80/night), we were blown away by the appearance and quality of service.  We walked through a central courtyard as the manager showed us to our room, opening up the balcony and encouraging us to have a fire built.  Our room, with towering beamed ceilings, arched alcoves and an iron chandelier, was elegant but comfortable.  We were thrilled to spend the rest of our time in Peru in such a luxurious setting. 

We set out to explore Cusco (at 11,000 feet), walking just a few blocks from our hotel in the San Blas area to the central plaza.  As we made our way through the alleyways of Inca stone we passed tourists, locals, venders, beggars and a man dressed as the Inca warrior king.  We walked around the Plaza de Armas, the main square, taking in the striking views of the Cusco Cathedral and Iglesia de la Compania, the churches that dominate the space. 

After reading a few menus, we decided on Sumaq Grill, a restaurant with open views of the entire square.  The only occurrence of bad weather on the entire trip, a hail storm passed through the city as we sat and enjoyed our drinks.  We dined on queso frito, alpaca steak, chicken stuffed with Peruvian cheese and vegetables, various potato dishes, passion fruit panna cotta and a complementary chocolate mousse- the server must have overheard us going back and forth over our dessert selection.   With great service and scrumptious food, it was one of the best meals we had in Peru.  After dinner we bought a few bottles of South American wine, one Peruvian white and an Argentinean red, and settled into our room to enjoy a night in front of the fire.

Day 5- Cusco

 

After breakfast, we headed up to the rooftop deck to enjoy a morning cup of coca tea and the views of the city before going out on foot.  We explored the Cusco area at a leisurely pace, stopping frequently to relax in various plazas such as the calm and quiet Plazoleta Nazarenas or the Plaza Regocijo where J and I had a conversation with a delightful elderly Quechua woman.  We visited the Pre-Colombian Art Museum (MAP- $7/pp), a museum dedicated to presenting artifacts as ancient works of art with a collection of masks, jewelry and ceramics. 

We were drawn back to the Sumaq Grille for a second time so J could try their cuy (guinea pig), which is prepared in a wood-burning oven in the middle of the restaurant.  When the Peruvian delicacy arrived, we were a little taken aback.  We were looking at the fully intact body of roasted guinea pig, teeth and all.  After taking a picture, the server cut the cuy into more manageable pieces.  With very little meat to pick off the bone, the actual act of eating a guinea pig is quite tedious, although we enjoyed being able to try a traditional Andean entrée.

That afternoon the Cathedral opened its massive doors and we were able to take in the remarkable vast area full of baroque artwork, gilded alters and tourists in awe of such beauty.  As I do in every church we visit in our travels, I spent a moment saying a prayer. I had unknowingly planned our trip for the week before Easter and we had the good fortune of experiencing local traditions and observations surrounding the holiday.  We arrived on Palm Sunday morning and passed a large procession carrying palms out of a cathedral and through the streets of Cusco.  While in Ollantaytambo we witnessed a group preparing a life-sized statue of Jesus in the courtyard of the church.  We spent much of our time in Lima on Good Friday as part of a huge crowd congregated in the historical center of the city parading from one church to the next.  It was quite moving to be able to experience Easter as it is celebrated in another culture. 

 

We went to Incanto, an Italian restaurant with Peruvian influences, for our last dinner in Cusco.  It is easy to see why it is one of the highest rated restaurants in the city- the minimalist decor shows off the original Inca walls, diners can watch chefs in the kitchen through a wall of windows and the menu features exciting dishes like saffron scallop risotto and the four-mushroom pasta.

 

 

We finished the evening with a few drinks in Jack’s Cafe, a small pub and restaurant down the street from our hotel.  Although there was a line out the door for dinner, we were able to get seats at the bar right away and enjoyed Pisco Sours and Cusquena while checking out the assortment of beautiful desserts in the case sitting on the far end of the counter. 
 

Day 6- Lima

 

Our flight from Cusco to Lima arrived at 1:30pm and our flight back to the states left at 12:40am- we had a little time to kill.  We arranged a tour of the city with Edward from Lima Cabs.  He received rave reviews on TripAdvisor and lived up to his reputation.  He drove us through the city, explaining the history while taking us in notable buildings like a famous hotel and a ship merchant’s home.  We joined a massive crowd of people celebrating Good Friday by moving through the main square Plaza Mayor, from church to church, saying a quick prayer or hearing an entire mass in each. 

In the late afternoon we moved to the Miraflores district, visited the Love Park, the famous Kissing sculpture and watched parasailers prepare for flight.  We stopped at Larcomar, a shopping mall built on the cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean.  On a whim we decided to eat at Bembos, a Peruvian fast food place with burgers, hot dogs, beer and Inca Cola, a sweet banana-flavored soda.  From there we made our way down to the bottom of the cliff where we sat at the ocean’s edge and watched the sun set into the water. 
 

 

While the entire tour had been delightful, the highlight of our time in Lima was visiting the Magic Water Circuit Water Park, a fountain garden featuring different displays including a show put to music with entrancing laser and lighting effects.  Pink, green and orange lights illuminated the cascading water and made the fountains glow.  The park was packed with multi-generational families, children dancing in fountains and couples strolling hand-in-hand, all delighting in the brilliant combination of liquid and light.  After a whirlwind tour of Lima, I nearly fell asleep as Edward drove us to the airport to catch our flight back home.
 

It is hard to wrap up a blog entry about visiting Machu Picchu, the Sacred Valley, Cusco and Lima, Peru.  I have thousands of memories- the girl at the Lima airport that passed on her book of crime brainteasers to me, Edward commenting that Lima has the most disappointing soccer team in all of South America (as diehard Cleveland fans, we understand his pain), J and Marco practicing their second languages together, correcting each other’s pronunciation while learning about one another.  J came way out of his travel comfort zone to make my dream come true and while we saw many marvelous sights, it is realizing this dream with J that made the trip so special.